The Pearl Guide
Everything we wish someone had told us before buying a first strand of pearls. Plain answers, no jargon.
Are freshwater pearls real pearls?
Yes. A freshwater cultured pearl is a real pearl, grown inside a living freshwater mussel. "Cultured" means a farmer started the process by placing a small piece of tissue inside the mussel. The mussel then coats it, layer by layer, in nacre, the same lustrous material that forms a natural pearl. Almost every pearl sold today is cultured; natural pearls found in the wild are extremely rare and priced accordingly.
Imitation pearls are a different thing entirely: glass, plastic or shell beads with a pearly coating painted on.
How freshwater pearls are grown
- Seeding. Small pieces of tissue are placed inside each mussel on lake and pond farms. Most of the world's freshwater pearls, including ours, come from farms around Zhuji in eastern China.
- Growing. The mussels are kept in nets in the water for a few years while the pearls build up nacre.
- Harvesting and sorting. Pearls are harvested, cleaned and graded by size, shape, color and surface.
- Stringing. Pearls of a similar size and tone are matched, drilled and strung into a necklace, then finished with a clasp.
Freshwater vs saltwater pearls
| Freshwater | Saltwater (Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian) | |
|---|---|---|
| Grown in | Freshwater mussels on lake and pond farms | Saltwater oysters in the ocean |
| Nacre | Usually solid nacre (tissue-nucleated) | Nacre layer around a bead nucleus |
| Shapes | Round, near-round, button, oval, baroque | More often round |
| Colors | White, pink, peach, lavender | White, cream, gold, grey, black |
| Price | Most affordable real pearls | Usually several times more |
Freshwater pearls are the most affordable way to own real pearls. Saltwater pearls are usually rounder and more uniform, and cost a lot more.
How to tell real pearls from fake ones
- The tooth test. Gently rub a pearl against the edge of your front teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty; glass and plastic feel perfectly smooth.
- Look closely. Real pearls vary a little in shape, size and tone from one to the next. Identical, perfectly uniform beads are a warning sign at low prices.
- Temperature. Real pearls feel cool when you first touch them and warm up slowly. Plastic feels room-temperature straight away.
- The drill hole. On imitation pearls the coating can chip or peel around the hole.
Which pearl size should I choose?
- 7–8 mm: delicate. Light and easy to wear every day, and a lovely first strand.
- 8–9 mm: classic. The size most people picture when they think of a pearl necklace.
- 9–10 mm: statement. More presence, especially with plain necklines and evening wear.
Our strands are 45 cm (about 17.7 in), a princess length that sits at or just below the collarbone on most people.
Shape: what "button" means
Our pearls are button-shaped: round when you look at them from the front and slightly flattened from the side. Worn, they read as round. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest, which is why they cost the most.
Are the colors natural?
Freshwater pearls grow naturally in white, pink, peach and lavender tones. Even so, most freshwater pearls on the market are bleached to brighten white pearls or color-enhanced to even out a strand. Our supplier doesn't confirm whether our pearls are treated, so please assume they may be. Treatment is standard in the industry and doesn't make a pearl any less real.
White, pink or lavender?
- White is the classic and goes with everything.
- Pink is warm and flattering against most skin tones.
- Lavender is softer and a little unexpected, lovely with grey, navy and black.
How to care for pearls
- Put your pearls on last, after perfume, hairspray and makeup.
- Wipe them with a soft, dry cloth after wearing.
- Keep them away from water, swimming pools, the shower and harsh cleaners.
- Store them flat in a soft pouch, away from harder jewelry that can scratch them.
- Wear them often. Pearls do best when they're worn.
About our necklace
The Keepsake necklace is a single strand of freshwater cultured pearls in 7–8, 8–9 or 9–10 mm, in white, pink or lavender, finished with a silver-tone heart clasp with rhinestone accents (not sterling silver). It ships free with tracking to the US and Canada, and unworn pieces can be returned within 30 days of delivery.
Questions? Email hello@letterkeepstudio.com. We reply within 1 business day.